The heart of every crystal chandelier or crystal adorned light fixture is the crystal itself. Each crystal represents the difference between choosing a light fixture of heirloom quality that completes the room or one that lacks warmth and will soon become just part of a room. Since the significant cost of a crystal chandelier is in the quality of the crystals that will adorn it, understanding the different types and shapes of crystals is necessary. When selecting your crystal options, consider that the type or grade of a crystal determines the clarity, color density, and light dispersion. To help with your selection of crystal grades, the most popular options are discussed in detail in the video below.

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1) BOTTOM PLATE

The bottom plate encloses the lower part of the motor housing. Casablanca uses a variety of materials including solid die-cast virgin zinc, heavy-gauge deep-drawn steel, and structurally reinforced resin for enhanced beauty, protection, and quiet operation.

2) SWITCH HOUSING

The switch housing encloses primary fan controls. It features heavy-duty, die-cast virgin zinc or steel for exceptional durability. In addition, the exclusive design allows for easy installation of Casablanca light fixtures, providing a finished, integrated look.

3) MOTOR HOUSING

Only Casablanca offers die-cast and steel construction, for unmatched motor durability. The housing's plated or handpainted finish stays bright and beautiful throughout decades of use, with no more care required than dusting with a soft cloth.

4) PERMA•LOCK™

The Perma•Lock™ system connects the fan to the downrod. Casablanca's 3/4"-diameter Perma•Lock™ design provides improved appearance and stable connection. This works in perfect combination with the patented Hang-Tru® canopy.

5) BLADES

Unrivaled in the industry, Casablanca's blades are crafted with six layers of wood in a cross-laminated pattern and finished with two outer layers of real furniture-grade wood veneer for lasting beauty and durability.

6) BLADE HOLDERS

Casablanca's blade holders provide an essential link between blades and motor. The blade holders are made of heavy-duty, reinforced die-cast virgin zinc and are tested thoroughly for reliable performance.

The first step in designing your Monorail system is to determine what it is you are trying to light. You'll need to decide where pendants or elements should be installed to put light where you want it.

The second step is to draw in your Monorail run. Remember, Monorail can be shaped by hand to follow architectural details or to create an organic shape. Your Monorail run must be placed so it runs directly beneath the junction box with the surface transformer or power feed canopy and intersects the locations of all the fixtures. Determine how many pieces of rail you'll need. Add a pair of end caps to each end of the run for an elegant finishing touch.

Next, add up the wattage of the lamps you'll be using on the system: this will help you select a transformer. A remote transformer with a power feed canopy provides the cleanest look, but the remote transformer must be installed in an accessible, remote location. A surface transformer simply mounts to a junction box.

Finally, determine how far from the ceiling you want the system to drop. Power feed canopies place the rail two inches from the ceiling; surface transformers drop it from two to five inches, depending on the type of transformer. If this drop is shorter than you require, you'll need to add a power extender to your canopy or surface transformer. The maximum standard drop for Monorail is eight feet.

There are select standoffs that will match the drop of your power feed to support the system. Adjustable standoffs provide a clean, elegant look. Choose rigid standoffs for curvy runs, or runs with multiple glass pendants. You'll need one standoff for every three feet of Monorail. The power feed counts as a support, so begin adding standoffs three feet from the power feed.

Note: Power extenders and standoffs are field-cuttable, so it's easy to achieve a custom drop length.